The Kelly Anorak

 Looking on the internet it seems I am about 5 years late to the Kelly Anorak pattern by Closet Core (and maybe three times that late to blogging), but I am at a point where it seems fun to sew a coat, and perhaps worth putting my sewing efforts down into some type of blog. This isn't likely to be pretty, but it would be helpful to have a place to write and express as I gain skills. We shall see.

I am working on my toile of the Kelly. I tried this back in Nov 2022, but to no avail - the toile didn't fit, I lost patience, and knew my skills would grow a bit to feel ready to tackle this. Although I got the pattern extension for the lining, I think it just makes sense to make a more simple version for my first one. So I will be doing an underlined version following the Closet Core blog post. A more simple version would be to just make it as written - but let's be honest, I won't wear a plain twill jacket in Michigan. The window to wear it just seems too small. A tiny bit of warmth added from flannel lining and some flannel backed satin seems better than just twill. So I am going to keep plunging forward even as I am on currently on Toile V. 3.0.

First, measurements:

Upper Bust: 43"

Bust: 49"

Waist 45.5"

Hip: 57"

My first Toile V. 1.0 last year isn't worth a deep dive - short version is sizing was off. I used the first pattern (straight sizes?) and then realized I should just buy the curvy pattern because it would actually be easier and more likely to fit me. I didn't realize if you buy the PDF pattern in either style you actually get both - this was annoying to realize after I had purchased a paper pattern and then had to purchase the PDF curvy pattern (which isn't in print), and overall just annoys me. Probably also was part of why I took a pause - had to get the PDF version and then get it printed, and I also had to reprint the lining in curvy. And after all that, I needed a break.

Toile V. 2.0 was completed this September and I made a 20/20/22 (for finished size 54.9"/54.5"/59.6"), but it was too snug everywhere. I actually tried to measure against an existing garment (from REI) to help guide me with the finished sizes, but in retrospect, maybe not a great idea. The original jacket actually doesn't fit well (way too snug on my belly and hips!) and so I should have just used those measurements to tell me where to start but instead I used it as a place to end. After I tried the toile on I realized my error - too much riding up in the back (to make up for the lack of fabric around my hips) and some drag lines at the bust (again because there wasn't enough fabric). With some soul searching, I went back to the toile and added in a few new panels to the side (4" total at the hips) and magically all my fit issues resolved - this clearly told me I just need to move up some sizes. This isn't a fitted garment and I need the ease for movement (and layering underneath!). I don't know what it is about adding inches that feels... hard... but it felt much easier when I just sliced open the sides and stuck in a few panels. It was pretty great to see all the drag lines disappear. And then realize it was just a matter of a few inches.

Also, before I started I was worried about lengthening the coat and after the toile I am excited to say at least the arms and overall length were good. So there was a solid positive which means I don't need to make those adjustments on my next toile.

For Toile V. 3.0 I went back to the sizing chart, and for my actual suggested size I chose - 22/24/26 (56.9"/58.5"/61.6"). My bust was between sizes and last time I sized down, so this time I sized up. This also just makes more sense as this is a coat (plus it means more room at the back which was lacking in the 20 - I am still not sure I won't need to adjust this, but at least this gets me closer to a better fit.)

My fabric is cut for Toile V. 3.0. Just need to sew it up. 

Toile pieces -

• A. Front Yoke
• B. Jacket Front
• C. Jacket Back
• E. Bottom Sleeve
• F. Top Sleeve

I have also been thinking about ease with this project - probably more than I ever consider ease in sewing. As a knitter I often think about sweaters and ease and it feels very intuitive. But with sewing and garments this just isn't something I have spent much time considering. Usually I am aiming for a fit and flare type dress - so I am aiming for pretty close ease. And then hips just don't matter. But this is a coat and I need the room inside. I tried to find curvy Kelly Anoraks out there in the wild, but really, they don't seem easy to find (maybe they are all on IG and that isn't a place I hang out). So I feel a bit like I am on my own here - but maybe I am also overthinking it?

In doing some research, I found this great webpage about ease levels. On the page they include information on outerwear - coats and jackets. In the bust, coats should have 6 7/8" - 8" of ease if they are semi-fitted, or 8 1/8" - 12" for loose fitting (these numbers are different for hips). If I take this into consideration and look at finished sizes compared to body measurements, this coat falls into these ease levels

Bust - 7.9" positive ease (semi-fitted)

Hip - 4.6" positive ease (loose fitting using hip ease)

This feels way better than the first toile which put me into the fitted category for bust, and semi-fitted for the hips. By moving up in amount of ease for both of these areas, I think I will feel way more comfortable and able to move! Also, my chosen sizes now align with the designer's original intent for ease and fit. One thing I will need to check it how my new toile works with layers - I am most likely to put on a hand knit sweater and a scarf. I read a few reviews that said the arms are tight (I think they assume just a shirt underneath), so I plan to check in this toile and then determine if I should swap the shape/size to be like the lined version.

While I don't need this to be a jacket (mostly worn with a thin layer underneath), I actually want it to perform a bit more like a coat - able to layer more things under it. Considering this, I feel more comfortable with my amount of ease - though I will likely need to move up in all sizes if I am to do any further insulating (I have some Thinsulate for my next one!).

I look forward to sharing this journey!

-a