Another Kelly Anorak Toile, and Bernina Feet

 I just completed the V. 3.0 Toile for the Kelly Anorak (22/24/26). Overall, it fits a lot better. The upper back is still tight, as well as the upper arms. 

In an attempt to really understand the full scope of fit, I put on a sweater and tried the toile on again - still tight. I keep debating how good the fit needs to be before I just jump into an actual coat with my fashion fabric.Today it is raining hard and the colors are changing - I just would like to sew something that I can finish before the season to wear it passes... But the fact I am pausing gives me the indication that I am not close enough yet.

To find some more guidance, I pulled out a Columbia jacket I bought at REI in July. At the time it seemed a bit ridiculous to purchase a puffer/jacket 3-in-1 combo, but it fit great and I knew it would come in handy sooner than later. And sure enough, I have been using it the past few days. So I pulled it out to help me judge the sizing for the Kelly. The waist/hips are pretty spot on (surprisingly!) but the upper back is +1" on the Columbia jacket shell. The puffer has raglan sleeves, but the shell has set-in sleeves. I think that extra 1" would make a big difference in the Kelly. I am debating between doing a broad back adjustment and some sort of bicep adjustment, or just doing a size 24/24/26. I feel like the larger size will help get me the room I need. Each size has a finished difference size of 2", so I am thinking that the next size up (24) would give me 1" in back, and 1" in front. 

Next I need to look at the expansion pack and see what the difference the upper arm is. I may just trace the top part and then use the cuff bottom. I really do prefer a cuff look - plus, I like the challenge of it. More to come.

One of the fun discoveries I have made while working on this jacket is my Bernina 560 is full of surprises! I have a foot I can use for gathering! (This would have been really helpful when I did two rows of basting stitches on 3.5 yards of fabric for a gathered skit!) I was looking online and found this video showing foot 3 with stitch 12. I used some top stitching thread (I have so much!) and this method for easing the sleeves in. It was vastly easier than dealing with thread ends! 

I love that no matter what, I always learn something while sewing. Whether it is a trick with a new foot, or to make sure my fabric isn't folded up while cutting so I don't end up accidentally cutting into my fashion fabric... There is always something to learn!

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