Toile-ing away

 I am still working on my Kelly toile. I try to chip away at this a bit each day. Following up on the latest version number 3.0, I measured some pieces in the lining expansion pack - namely the upper arm and the upper back. They aren't wider in the places I need them (which makes sense as they are the lining pieces meant to go inside the shell I am currently working on - obvious in hindsight...). Given this, I am back to figuring out the fit issues.

I tried the "slash" method to do a broad back adjustment. In doing this the fabric hung fine but opened up a lot when I reached forward. It also helped remove the tightness in the upper arms. This leads me to believe I need more fabric. It also makes the think that it is a bit too fitted still. The amount that opened up is 3.25" across both slashes.

I went back to my trusty Columbia jacket and did some measurements - the upper backs differ by .5" (Columbia is +0.5"), and the upper arms differ by 2" (Columbia is +2"). So, I think I do need more room in the back and probably in the arms. But is .5" enough versus the 3.25" in the slash?

Now, the question is, do I size up, or do I do a broad back adjustment? And bicep adjustment? 

To answer this, I go back to my measurements. I did a quick review and my hips are closer to 54" (not the original 57") but it doesn't affect the size I chose since I did the slash method and went by that measurement.

My measurements vs. Finished Kelly Anorak Garment Size (size in parenthesis) & Ease Level for Jacket

  • Upper Bust: 43"
  • Bust: 49" -- 56.9" (22) -- +7.9" ease - Loose Fitting (in a jacket)
  • Waist 45.5" -- 58.5" (24) -- +13" ease
  • Hip: 54" -- 63.6" (26) -- +10.6" ease
I also did some searching online and found this discussion on a PatternReview.com bulletin board:
 "In theory, each layer of clothing worn under outerwear increases the body's circumference by the corresponding amount of ease. So [5" coat ease] - [2" max. wearing ease of underlayers] = [3" wearing ease of coat].

So if I have a bust of 49", and I wear a sweater (+2" ease), my bust is closer to 51" in diameter. Which means my coat would have closer to 5.9" of ease.

Considering all of this - I think it would be easier to just go up a size. It is a jacket, it will be slightly larger and more of a boxy fit, plus I want to be able to layer underneath it as well as be able to move comfortably. Given that it will be underlined in flannel, I need to also consider that as I think about the ease.

So, new plan - 24/24/26:

  • Bust: 49" -- 58.9" (24) -- +9.9" ease - Loose Fitting (in a jacket)
  • Waist 45.5" -- 58.5" (24) -- +13" ease
  • Hip: 54" -- 63.6" (26) -- +10.6" ease

And then I went back to the Columbia and it was 54" at the bust. So now I feel all confused. I really just want to make a jacket out of the packet. I really just want to be done Toile-ing away and have something I can start working on as a sewing project. And I really don't want to sew a jacket that just frustrates me. 

So, in the spirit of trying to do what is needed... I went back to the internet and searched some more. And I came across this Helen's Closet blog post about how she did a broad back adjustment using a method that didn't result in a dart on the back. I like the idea of this, though it isn't supposed to be used for more than 3/4" (which would give me 1.5" total). Is that enough?

I am going to take a break for today and come back to this during the week. I need time for my brain to noodle on this.

-a


 

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